Rating: ***/***
FD: ?
Height: tops out well over 10,000 ft

Access: Columbia Icefields via the 93 North. Lake Louise to Jasper

Characteristics: year round glacier ice/snow

Best time: steep season in the Canadian Rockies – Spring, late Summer, Fall.

The Run:

The North Face from the ridge below the rockband. The run is a 45 - 50 degree face, over 2000 ft with a bergshrund at the bottom. You can climb the shortest part of the face up to the ridge, then climb the ridge to the top of the line. From there, you can gear up and ski out onto the face via a little notch and scizzor/warden turn it all the way down.

The Silverhorn: the major ice ridge that climbs almost directly to the summit. It maxes out at just over 40 degrees and is a definite no fall zone. You also have to know the exit, as there are large crevasses and icefalls on either side of the ridge. This line can be accessed via the summit by the 'peaks' entrance, adds a crux at the top, steep face.

Time: day trip

Objective Hazards:
There are a few major aspects to be careful of on this peak:
• You have to climb your lines, so you have to be positive of the snowpacks stability.
• Don’t fall on the upper half of the run, it’s super steep and you may not stop.
• Snow stability is always a concern on this peak, know da snow!

Trip Reports
post your trip report here


For More info check:
Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies by Sean Dougherty

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