Mt. Stanley May 2004.wmv 22mgs

At 10,351 feet, Stanley is no walk in the park. Named for Lord Stanley, who is better known for the Stanley Cup; the peak is a much more coveted and beautiful prize than the trophy. You gain over 1600m/5200 ft from the Valley floor. Our goal was to climb and ski the North facing Kahl route, a grade 3 alpine climb and sick descent. The journey requires glacier travel and skiing above and below exposure at many points during the trek. With high pressure in the forecast for days ahead, we knew that this was our chance to bag it in good condition.











We left the city first thing in the morning and were departing the Stanley Glacier parking area before first light. The approach to Stanley is eerily beautiful. The first part of the ascent climbs up through a freshly burned forest. Once we hit the alpine, we were daunted by massive cliffs and icefalls on our right, fortifying the objective.











Just over 5kms in we hit the toe of the glacier. The toe is easily accessed and opens up great new scenery. We crossed the glacier below the massive Y couloir and Waterman couloir. The acsent is spectacular, with views of Whymper, Storm and Boom in the immediate vicinity and an endless skyline of peaks into the distance. There are huge cliffs and a massive serac as you make your way under the headwall towards the face.









The face is huge and steep. The lower part of the climb was straightforward as the bergshrund was completely filled in for our passing. The first section runs at a pretty consistent 50 The upper face steepens to over 60 and then finally rolls over at the top to a nice summit ridge. The conditions were perfect. By the time we hit the summit we were ready for some food and a quick break to recharge. We now had a 5000ft ski and hike back to the parking lot.














As we clipped into our bindings, the nerves were high. The top section starts off mellow and then just rolls off into the abyss and steepens sickeningly. We went one at a time, and Dom put in the first tracks. He skied it smooth, confidently and carefully. Brandon proceeded next, and by the time it was my turn I still had butterflies going. The first turn is the worst turn, and this is not a face that affords making a mistake. The commitment to that turn seemed like the most important thing in my world. Then it was over - the first turn was made and it was perfect conditions. I took my time proceeding slowly and controlled. Then I met Brandon and Dom below the first section. We had all made it down the most exposed section safely. From here on out we relaxed and enjoyed the rest of the face.









Totally exhilerated with our accomplishment, the adrenaline started to wear off and we began our tour back under the Waterman and Y couloir towards the tongue in a satisfied silence. Our turns down the tongue of the stanley offered us our last taste. By the time we were back at the car, the round trip had taken us over 13 hours. This one will go down in all of our books with a big smile. Enjoy the video.